Video Report Descending the Mountain

Check out video from Rainier!

Success on Rainier, 14,411

Support the Climb and Bay Area Wilderness Training: Donate Now

Dear Supporters:

It has been a few weeks since my last post and I apologize for my absence. Since then, big things have happened. Life continues to roll on in the lowlands and up high. Down here in the city I have a new place and work is going strong. Up in the mountains, the real accomplishments are taking place. I successfully summited Mt. Rainier on July 22 at around 7am! The climb was a total success! Here's a brief recap of the experience:

On Saturday the 19th I flew up to Seattle, where I met Kyle MacDonald, founder of BAWT and fellow climber. We went through the normal motions of renting a car, then headed up in the darkness to Ashford and the Rainier Mountaineering Inc. basecamp, the Whittaker Bunkhouse.

Sunday morning, after downing cups of coffee and bagels, the summit team met one another and the three RMI guides that would lead us up the mountain and around crevasses and rockfall zones. After some talks and gear checks, the team headed up to the national park and Paradise, our trailhead for the expedition. At Paradise, we all donned our double plastic mountaineering boots and began walking a short distance up snowfields to some steep gullies, perfect sites for snow school. This year the Pac NW received a ton of snow, "fattening up" the mountain. The result was a dearth of beautiful, green meadows even in late July. Much of the lower mountain still lay blanketed in feet of snow.

Snow school is great fun, and more importantly, it acts for many as the first experience that people have learning about proper mountaineering techniques such as walking with crampons, managing rope teams and most importantly, catching someone's fall with a self arrest. Self arresting basically involves driving the pick of an ice ax into the snow to stop an uncontrolable slide down an icy slope. This technique is life-saving if done properly and is the last defense should someone on a rope team fall into a crevasse or down a slope, keeping the rest of the team from being pulled off the mountain.

By Sunday evening, the team, equipped with bronzed faces and new skills to stay alive on the mountain, headed back to basecamp to prepare gear for the climb that started early the next morning.

Monday brought another team busride to Paradise, this time with the entire team equipped for the climb. By the time we arrived and made our way through the throngs of tourists in the parking lot outside the lodge. Outside in the parking lot we lathered ourselves in sunscreen and started marching slowly to our high camp, Camp Muir. Step by step our team inched higher on the mountain and into view of massive glaciers, the Wilson, Nisqually and Nisqually Icefall. By 3pm, the team had arrived at Camp Muir, an eclectic collection of plywood huts, stone windbreaks and scattered expedition tents strewn about the surrounding glaciers and snowfields. The team dropped our packs, filled up on water and prepared dinner. By 6pm, all of us were down, snug in our sleeping bags in our windbeaten shelter. The climb would start later that night at 11:30pm.

I passed out quickly. Somehow I've managed to sharpen my skills in falling asleep anywhere on command. I woke up at 11:30 refreshed and ready to tackle the mountain. My other compadres weren't so fortunate. Many complained of light or nonexistent sleep thoughout the evening period.

After guzzling down oatmeal and coffee, we were off at around 1230am. By headlamp my rope team made our way over glaciers, through avalanche and rock zones in the predawn darkness. One of the cool things abotu climbing high at night is seeing people ahead on the mountain. Only headlamps are visible as small specks of light high on the mountain. At first glance, the view of these lights so high makes you take stock of the efforts still ahead of you on the climb. You see them and think, "damn; I will be pulling myself to there and beyond."

The coolest thing about climbing in the darkness is the serenity. Yes, I was part of a rope team. However, when alone in the dark, your world is limited to the light of your headlamp and the rythm of your breath. It's almost meditative to feel the cold entering your nose and mouth, your breath, the crunch of the snow and the bright white light off of the snow. It's beautiful.

Adding to the beauty was the moon that shined over us on the climb. We weren't totally in the dark as a 3/4 moon illuminated much of the glaciers and rocks that surrounded us. Details were impossible to distinguish, but you could see the outlines of rock cliffs and the white faces of glaciers and icefalls above. I remember walking beneath an immense white wall and feeling this looming, intimidating presence over my shoulders. Our guide Andres' command of, "we need to cruise through here" reaffirmed my exhilaration and distrust of the face above.

By daybreak our team had moved far above the icefalls and high onto the Ingraham Glacier. As daybreak illuminated the mountain, I finally could get a real perspective on how high we had come. At one point I felt dizzied as I looked down onto the silver blanket of clouds below. To the South, Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Adams and Mt. Hood were all poking their peaks out of the clouds. We took a quick team break to down water and masticate Clif Bars. Scenery absorbed, we had to now refocus our attention on navigating through a field of crevasses that guarded the last 1000 vertical ft. of ice above us. At one point, gathered on a large serac--detached block of ice on a glacier-- we had to cross a series of crevasses on weak snow bridges. Andres, our guide approached the most challenging of these crossings, set an anchor, then informed us in his Columbian accent, "small step, BIG consequence." Wise words. As I took my turn leaping off the serac and over this crevasse, I decided to take a peep down to see what the big consecuence would be: an abyss that beautifully transitioned from glacier blue, to dark blue, to back. No bottom in sight. I took a breath and leaped over the void, hoping the snowbridge that I landed on would hold my weight. It did and I felt like I had a new lease on life... until I had to cross it again on the decent.

More slogging up stiff snow in the low light of morning finally took us to the summit crater and Columbia Crest, the summit of Mt. Rainier. Of the 7 members our team, 4 arrived at the summit, one, stopped short at the summit crater only 200 vertical feet from the top. Excited, we all pulled out flags representing our repsective donors and snappend shot after shot of our success. The moment was magical and I had to restrain a few tears as I walked away from my team on the broad summit, all of Washington spread beneath. Oddly enough, I felt better than I ever had above 14,000ft. Like on Mt. Hood, I don’t remember being out of breath at all...

Celebrations over and tired of taking summit shots, we regathered and began the decent down the mountain. My thought immediately shifted to thinking about passing through the sketchy parts of the climb, epecially that damn crevasse and weak snowbridge that would by now be further weakened by the warming sun. Soon enough, we arrived at that snowbridge and with another deep breath and a sinking stomach, I lept over the void and onto solid footing on the serac below. Step by step, we continued downward.Four hours later, the team rolled back into Camp Muir where we received a warm welcome from our compadres that had come down early. We did it and all felt immense satisfaction. During the next few minutes at camp we packed and sorted our gear for the rest of the decent. Not surprisingly, the conversation changed from talk of the summit, to how delicious pizza and beer would be once we got down. When we finally arrived at basecamp, we devoured four pizzas and pitcher after pitcher of cold beer: our celebration feast.

Climbing Rainier was spectacular. I can't wait to get back to Seattle to do it again. A winter ascent sounds especially attractive. For the time being, my physical goal of acheiving the summit has been attainted.
There is still room to go in order to reach my fundraising goal and I need your help to get me there. By September 1, I need to have raised $3800. Right now, with your support we've raised $1460. Time is closing in. If you haven't donated yet, please head on over the website and donate now! Only you all can help me acheive the other summit of this endeavor. Your generosity and support goes to help inner city kids get outside and enjoy the benefits of wilderness.

Cheers,

Steve

Final Weekend of Training

Hello Supporters!

Well, it's been a few weeks since I last posted, but all has been going well. After climbing Hood, I took a weekend off to rest my bones, then hit the peaks over the 4th.

So well rested and ready to hit the peaks, I took advantage of 4th of July weekend by heading into Yosemite for a summit of Mt. Lyell with a few amigos (Lauren and Ryan). Ryan and Lauren were going to join in up Lyell Canyon. Friday we were to walk in, establish a base camp and rest for the following day. Saturday, Ryan and I were going to take off to bag Lyell and MacClure, summit both, then come back to spend the evening with Lauren in excellent company. Stories, food, stars and laughs. Sunday was the walkout. What a great plan?!

Well, I failed to remember the quota system and challenge of getting wilderness permits. We did not get a permit to head into Lyell Canyon. Lauren had lowland things to take care of. The trip changed. No worries, though; it's all about improvising and moving with the changes...

So Ryan and I headed up to Yosemite on Thursday for what turned out to be a marathon weekend. Friday we climbed by setting a few topropes up at Great Western Front near Daff Dome--5.9-5.10b. After an afternoon of climbing, we ran up the S. slope of Lembert Dome in the Tuolumne High Country. Saturday, thinking we'd hit Lyell or Conness in a day, we woke up late, scratching yet another plan. Driving to do Mt. Hoffman, Ryan picked out an old favorite of mine, the Kuna Crest. We ended up climbing Mammoth Peak, over 12, then traversing the Kuna Crest and summiting 4 additional peaks along the way. By sundown we were happy and exhausted, both clutching frosty beers in delighted satisfaction.

Thinking we'd take it easy and head to the Valley for some toproping, Ryan and I headed West down Tioga Road. However, as we neared the Pass, Ryan's mood changed and he asked me hesitantly, "hey dude, can we do Mt. Dana instead?" Having climbed Dana numerous times, both winter and summer, and wanting to do something different, inwardly I resisted. Then I realized, although I know this peak front and back, it's a beautiful hike and great training. So, I accepted the idea with one variation: we climb nonstop and race ourselves. Ryan and I summited the 3000 vertical feet and 2-3mile trail in nearly 55 minutes with only one minute-long break (I requested it) to get some water. Ryan, always ready for a slog, came equipped with a Camelbak. Not bad. Feeling strong.

So we had a wonderful, hard weekend. Driving down from Dana I wanted more. Ryan resisted my call to sprint up Lembert Dome and we instead headed to Oakdale for some delicious and much deserved Mexican food.

Training went exceptionally well last weekend, and better than any plan that we had ever devised weeks before...

This weekend, more rest as I head to NC for my old buddy's wedding. I will find ways to keep myself going.

Next weekend is THE climb, Rainier. It's time. I couldn't be more stoked.


On the fundraising front, I'm still waiting for a few of you to make your mark. There's little time before my climb--less than two weeks-- so it would be incredible if you could donate soon! Just click the link on the top right of the blog called the "Link to Steve's Donation Page". I've still got some distance to go and only you can help me move forward!

Until my next week, check out these pictures from this weekend. Ryan and I were on the top of the world! It's time... Also, check back frequently as I'm going to try and post a video from the top of the Kuna Crest. I just need to figure out how to post such a large file. Until then...

Thanks for your support and Happy Trails!!

Great Success! Hood Summit on 6/22

Hello Supporters!

Well, another week has passed and there's great news to share with you on the training front! My uncle and I summited Mt. Hood successfully on Sunday at about 6:25am. The climb was spectacular, not too difficult and loads of fun.

Not only am I rejuvenated and more pumped than ever about Rainier, but I got to climb this mountain together with the man that introduced me to climbing, spending time outside and the West Coast: my uncle Bill. This climb was until now, the capstone to all of the experiences in the mountains with my uncle. Back in '97 I started coming out to the Bay Area for what started as a weekend in Tahoe, then a summer week in Yosemite. That one year of winter and summer in the Sierras did me in. Every year thereafter I began coming out to chill in the winter, then tackle something harder, longer and higher each summer. After graduating from high school, we crossed the Sierras in a week and climbed Mt. Whitney. Whitney's high, but nontechnical. Now, after graduating college, we did Hood. Hood is not as high, but much more technical involving rope management, crampons, ice axes, route finding and much more serious risk assessment. Check out some of the pics further down the page. The climb was absolutely spectacular, remarkably easy--thus allowing more time to enjoy and have fun up Bill. I can't wait to continue on.

On the fundraising side, you all have been fantastic. I challenged you to put me over a grand by July 1. Well, you did that within a day of the challenge; I obviously underestimated your generosity. AWESOME! Let's keep it up! My goal is to raise $3800 big ones by the day I summit Rainier. I can do it, but only with your generous help. Hit up the fundraising page and drop some support. Your donation goes directly towards BAWT, its programs and mission to get youth outdoors!

This weekend I'm going to take some time off and head down the coast for some surfing and camping. Then, I'll be back at it the following week in Yosemite for Mt. Lyell, the highest peak in the park at 13,114. If I feel like a real rockstar, I might have to throw in another peak on top of it! Summit day is fast approaching and I've got to keep up the pace.

Until my next post, enjoy these pics and check out a few more through Facebook. Friend me and I'll let you in on more fun.

Happy Trails,

Steve

Time for Mt. Hood

Good Friday Morning!

Well, I was planning on going in to work this morning for a bit, but my boss told me to take the entire day off. Nice.

Last weekend I didn't do any training. I would have loved to have headed up to the Sierras, but work sent me to Amsterdam for the weekend to meet the 90 plus Dutch kids that are coming to the States this year. Not only did I meet the kids, but I got to see a bit of Holland, and more importantly, meet with our great Dutch partners. Good weekend... one that was jam-packed and didn't even give me enough time to get over jet lag.

I've been back home since Sunday and climbing a bit in the gym, but mainly I've been trying to recuperate for this weekend, the huge step up to Rainier, Mt. Hood. Check out these gnarly pics! Above right is the peak and below is the final push to the summit through the "Pearly Gates". Although Hood isn't that high, about 11,200, it's heavily glaciated and a peak that routinely takes a few people a year. Whereas here in the Sierras peaks tend to be relatively smaller crags, Mt. Hood is a full, cascade volcano many times larger that any Sierra peak. The mountain is huge, creates its own weather and it truly stands alone from any other landform in its vicinity by at least 5000 feet. Hood is step up, a true stepping stone to the biggest, most challenging cascade volcano, Mt. Rainier.

I'm flying to Portland this evening, then headed up to the Timberline Lodge where, with my uncle, we will take classes in roped mountaineering, various self arrests, maybe some crevasse rescue and glacier travel. We'll retire early tomorrow, then wake up around midnight on Sunday morning and begin our long climb through the snow and up the South ridge, through the Hogsback and the Pearly Gates to the summit. Here's to hoping for great weather and an amazing time! I will report back early next week with photos and some cool thoughts.

Summer starts today and why not start out the new season with a donation to Bay Area Wilderness Training in my name? Now's the time that kids can get out on life-affirming wilderness trips--they're out of school, have lots of free time and the weather's perfect. Donate now to BAWT, help me reach my goal and help to get these great Nor. Cal youth outside! Just head on over to the Donation Page !

Many Thanks and Happy Trails!

June Update

Hello Out There!

It's been a while since I've updated this page, but I'm finally getting to it. Blogger has been throwing some hoops in my way, but I've finally managed to jump through them.

The past few months have been loaded with intense weekends in the mountains, training for the big climb. Last week I completed my first solo mountaineering climb up Mt. Dana: a normally long, high, but easy walk in summer, but when covered in snow, it becomes a full on peak complete with some great route finding. Gearing up with crampons and ice ax, I shot up the North Face through a few gullies, then walked along the corniced ridge to the summit. It was an amazing day and I felt really strong. I'm actually getting on track and I'm feeling confident that Rainier should not pose too many problems.

Before Dana, I hit a number of other spots: Donahue Pass in a snow storm, Matterhorn Peak winter ascent, Round Top winter ascent, a long slog up Clouds Rest from Yosemite Valley in snowshoes and various other rock climbs throughout Yosemite and the Eastern Sierra. It's been a busy spring and I'm super stoked.

Thanks to everyone that's been donating to date. We're up and past the $500 mark and I'm looking to get on up there one move at a time. If you haven't made your mark, please head on over to my Climbing for Kids donation page . Remember, you're donation goes directly to helping get inner city kids outside and into nature!